Read one journalist's account of the GDF... definitely a take that is not concerned with being politically correct!
Day 1 http://gaitpostgdf2007.blogspot.com/2007_10_30_archive.html
Day 2 http://gaitpostgdf2007.blogspot.com/2007_11_01_archive.html
Thursday, November 8, 2007
Sunday, November 4, 2007
Coverage of the Global Dressage Forum
Eurodressage has great coverage of the 2007 Global Dressage Forum.
Go HERE. to view the reports. MANY words of wisdom even in their highly summarized abstracts of the symposiums presentations.
Go HERE. to view the reports. MANY words of wisdom even in their highly summarized abstracts of the symposiums presentations.
The Gas Pedal
Purpose: Dressage is about utilizing the forward energy of the horse, collecting it and then directing it into a dance. The purpose of this lesson is to learn the aids and refine the aids that generate forward motion. Without this forward motion, no further work in dressage or in any discipline for that matter can proceed.
Goal: At the end of this lesson, the horse should respond to a light leg aid and move forward. The rider should also be able to demonstrate a consistent and fair use of the forward or "go" aids.
Lesson:
Step 1: After walking for 5-10 minutes in warm-up (some trotting also okay), halt your horse along the wall at either E or B facing the short side of the arena. The rider should sit quietly and squarely in the saddle with their legs softly draped on the horse's sides.
The rider should be breathing fluidly. The outward breath is the breath of impulsion and energy. As you breathe out, stretch tall, close your legs and soften your hands slightly forward. If the horse does not go forward, repeat. If he still does not go forward, repeat and tap with the whip just behind your calf. As soon as the horse responds, soften your leg back to its neutral draped position, allow your body to move forward with the horse and offer him a praise of "good boy" and a pat on the neck. (Careful to keep your reins in your hand as you pat your horse. Do not worry about whether the horse moves off in a walk or trot at this point. Just go with it and reward it! Quietly bring the horse back to the halt.
Repeat the sequence several times. If the horse is understanding, then he should move off more promptly and with increased enthusiasm after a few repetitions. Try it while facing the other direction.
Step 2: Walk your horse on a 20m circle. Follow his walking motion with your seat and hands lightly contacting his mouth via the reins. Again, check that your legs are draped along the horse's side and that you are breathing regularly. To initiate a trot, exhale, stretch tall, close the calf. Immediately soften your aids, follow you horse's motion and pat him if he trots off. If he does not, repeat the sequence and add a tap with the whip. Do not simply get firmer with the legs. This creates a dull horse who will look for increasing amounts of pressure from you until you cannot be strong enough. Habituate your horse to listening to quiet aids. (the essence of Horse Whispering!) This takes time, patience and consistency!!! It is also important to note that it is the RELEASE of pressure/stimulus/aids that informs a horse he has successfully responded to them. Therefore, if you quit asking when he is not responding to you, you will teach him its okay not to respond. Likewise if you are quick to soften your aids and release your pressure at the very instant he responds, you will quickly teach him to be very prompt and light to your aids. You will also notice that this creates a positive situation where the horse actually TRIES to do it even better and more quickly.
Step 3: At a walk or trot and later at a canter if you and your horse are advanced enough. I prefer to do this exercise first in the trot, however, newer riders or young horses or anyone not sure of their abilities should try in walk first. However, I'll give the directions in trot.
Take up a 20m circle in trot using your sequence of aids. Then go with the trot, but do not continue to give your aids at each stride. In fact, get extremely quiet in your aids. Keep your legs as quiet and draped as possible with a stretched calf and deep heel. Leave your horse very much alone and allow him to think that since you aren't ASKING him to keep trotting it might be okay if he quit. Allow him to stop trotting and immediately activate your aids, exhale, stretch tall and close the calf. Repeat. See how quickly your horse begins to understand that he has a responsibility to continue forward without your prompting every step. He will over a time slow down. This is expected. However, it is like riding a skateboard. You push to achieve your desired forward momentum and then you stand there and allow the board to glide. Eventually friction begins to slow it down, so you give one, maybe two pushes to put it back up to speed. You never push every single step. The same is true with the horse. He must carry the forward motion on his own with greater responsibility and with less effort from you. You too though, must be focused and feel when your horse/skateboard slows down enough to need a push and it is better to feel when a small quiet push is needed than wait too long and have to give a larger aid or "push" to get your horse going again.
Check for Understanding:
What is the aid for "go"? nearly at once you exhale, stetch tall, and close the leg.
What do you add if that does not work? Repeat and then repeat with a tap of the whip behind the leg
Did your horse improve during the session? Take even slight improvements. Do not expect to solve all your forward issues in one day. This takes time and practice and every rider reveiws this concept to some degree daily with every horse. As the work becomes more challenging it is very easy to dull your horse to the aids. You will need refreshers too!
What if you felt no improvement? Contact a qualified instructor if ever you are unsure as to how to proceed. These are ideas and accumulations of my lessons and not meant to be a substitute for professional instruction. However, unless the horse simply did not move or cooperate at all (in which case, call your vet, farrier, have the saddle checked and your position checked) try it again the next time you ride. Its likely you will see improvement then.
Goal: At the end of this lesson, the horse should respond to a light leg aid and move forward. The rider should also be able to demonstrate a consistent and fair use of the forward or "go" aids.
Lesson:
Step 1: After walking for 5-10 minutes in warm-up (some trotting also okay), halt your horse along the wall at either E or B facing the short side of the arena. The rider should sit quietly and squarely in the saddle with their legs softly draped on the horse's sides.
The rider should be breathing fluidly. The outward breath is the breath of impulsion and energy. As you breathe out, stretch tall, close your legs and soften your hands slightly forward. If the horse does not go forward, repeat. If he still does not go forward, repeat and tap with the whip just behind your calf. As soon as the horse responds, soften your leg back to its neutral draped position, allow your body to move forward with the horse and offer him a praise of "good boy" and a pat on the neck. (Careful to keep your reins in your hand as you pat your horse. Do not worry about whether the horse moves off in a walk or trot at this point. Just go with it and reward it! Quietly bring the horse back to the halt.
Repeat the sequence several times. If the horse is understanding, then he should move off more promptly and with increased enthusiasm after a few repetitions. Try it while facing the other direction.
Step 2: Walk your horse on a 20m circle. Follow his walking motion with your seat and hands lightly contacting his mouth via the reins. Again, check that your legs are draped along the horse's side and that you are breathing regularly. To initiate a trot, exhale, stretch tall, close the calf. Immediately soften your aids, follow you horse's motion and pat him if he trots off. If he does not, repeat the sequence and add a tap with the whip. Do not simply get firmer with the legs. This creates a dull horse who will look for increasing amounts of pressure from you until you cannot be strong enough. Habituate your horse to listening to quiet aids. (the essence of Horse Whispering!) This takes time, patience and consistency!!! It is also important to note that it is the RELEASE of pressure/stimulus/aids that informs a horse he has successfully responded to them. Therefore, if you quit asking when he is not responding to you, you will teach him its okay not to respond. Likewise if you are quick to soften your aids and release your pressure at the very instant he responds, you will quickly teach him to be very prompt and light to your aids. You will also notice that this creates a positive situation where the horse actually TRIES to do it even better and more quickly.
Step 3: At a walk or trot and later at a canter if you and your horse are advanced enough. I prefer to do this exercise first in the trot, however, newer riders or young horses or anyone not sure of their abilities should try in walk first. However, I'll give the directions in trot.
Take up a 20m circle in trot using your sequence of aids. Then go with the trot, but do not continue to give your aids at each stride. In fact, get extremely quiet in your aids. Keep your legs as quiet and draped as possible with a stretched calf and deep heel. Leave your horse very much alone and allow him to think that since you aren't ASKING him to keep trotting it might be okay if he quit. Allow him to stop trotting and immediately activate your aids, exhale, stretch tall and close the calf. Repeat. See how quickly your horse begins to understand that he has a responsibility to continue forward without your prompting every step. He will over a time slow down. This is expected. However, it is like riding a skateboard. You push to achieve your desired forward momentum and then you stand there and allow the board to glide. Eventually friction begins to slow it down, so you give one, maybe two pushes to put it back up to speed. You never push every single step. The same is true with the horse. He must carry the forward motion on his own with greater responsibility and with less effort from you. You too though, must be focused and feel when your horse/skateboard slows down enough to need a push and it is better to feel when a small quiet push is needed than wait too long and have to give a larger aid or "push" to get your horse going again.
Check for Understanding:
What is the aid for "go"? nearly at once you exhale, stetch tall, and close the leg.
What do you add if that does not work? Repeat and then repeat with a tap of the whip behind the leg
Did your horse improve during the session? Take even slight improvements. Do not expect to solve all your forward issues in one day. This takes time and practice and every rider reveiws this concept to some degree daily with every horse. As the work becomes more challenging it is very easy to dull your horse to the aids. You will need refreshers too!
What if you felt no improvement? Contact a qualified instructor if ever you are unsure as to how to proceed. These are ideas and accumulations of my lessons and not meant to be a substitute for professional instruction. However, unless the horse simply did not move or cooperate at all (in which case, call your vet, farrier, have the saddle checked and your position checked) try it again the next time you ride. Its likely you will see improvement then.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Finding the "Kruez"
For Germans, the term Kruez is well understood. For those of us who are not native German speakers, it can get a little lost in translation.
Kruez is pronounced 'kroyts'. It refers to the combined musculature, angle and drive of the pelvis, abs, lowerback and torso used to drive the seatbones in a forward motion in the saddle. This motion happens without leaning in the upper body, either forward or backward, and without the use of the leg aids primarily. Leg aids can back up the use of the Kruez where the horse does not respond. However, a sufficiently suppled horse who is well schooled to the aids should rarely need much reinforcement with the leg.
According to Walter Zettl on pg. 51 of Dressage in Harmony
, "the movement [of the Kruez] is like one sitting on a swing, trying to bring the swing forward wihtout moving the legs or upper body." Another way to experience the use of the Kruez as a forward driving aid is to sit on the edge of a rolling office chair on a smooth surface. Sit on your seatbones with your pelvic floor level to the ground and your upper body stacked vertically over your hips (no leaning forward or backward) let your feet rest flat on the floor with your knees slightly open and your heels close to under your hip (in a chair you won't be able to have heel/hip/shoulder alignment) Now, try to roll the chair forward slightly without tilting back on your tailbone or leaning or pumping with your upper body. Your chair will only roll an inch or so, but this is sufficient. You just drove the 'hindlegs' of your horse further under you!
If you don't have a rolling chair you can still experience the movement of the Kruez by sitting in the same manner as above, but instead of rolling the chair, tip the rear legs upward off of the floor. Again, you have "activated" the hind legs!
More Reading on the Subject
This particular book covers in wonderful detail how to find the correct posture and body awareness to coordinate the weight aids. Excellent reading with very good exercises and visuals
Sylvia Loch has an entire series of books dedicated to classical riding, and the classical seat.
Kruez is pronounced 'kroyts'. It refers to the combined musculature, angle and drive of the pelvis, abs, lowerback and torso used to drive the seatbones in a forward motion in the saddle. This motion happens without leaning in the upper body, either forward or backward, and without the use of the leg aids primarily. Leg aids can back up the use of the Kruez where the horse does not respond. However, a sufficiently suppled horse who is well schooled to the aids should rarely need much reinforcement with the leg.
According to Walter Zettl on pg. 51 of Dressage in Harmony
If you don't have a rolling chair you can still experience the movement of the Kruez by sitting in the same manner as above, but instead of rolling the chair, tip the rear legs upward off of the floor. Again, you have "activated" the hind legs!
More Reading on the Subject
This particular book covers in wonderful detail how to find the correct posture and body awareness to coordinate the weight aids. Excellent reading with very good exercises and visuals
Sylvia Loch has an entire series of books dedicated to classical riding, and the classical seat.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
The Importance of the Rider's Seat
This was posted by Dr. Ackerman on the New Paradigm list. Wise words from the late Herr Neindorff with an excellent translation by Dr. Thomas Ritter
Enjoy!!!
THE SEAT CONDUCTS - by Egon von Neindorff, translated by Dr. ThomasRitter, 1999.
The equestrian technical jargon has ambiguous terms that have become open to misinterpretations through many different usages. Even basic concepts such as "Relaxation" and "Weight aids" are among them. Their meaning must be explained again and again in order to eradicate misunderstandings in practice. For this purpose, a book from the last turn of the century is lying before me with the title "Natürliche Reitkunst" (Natural art of riding). It was writtenby a man who combined both practical skill and theoretical knowledge uncommonly well: Lieutenant Colonel Otto de la Croix (d. 1908) discusses topics that are as relevant today as they were then. His experiences and thoughts are so present that I shall take the liberty to repeat them in his words as much as possible.
This master and teacher is among those who hold that it is above all the back as an elastic bridge between forehand and hindquarters that determines the movement under the rider's weight, along with the horse's natural crookedness and the activity of the haunches. According to him, the correctly understood relaxation is to be found in "the race horse that is fully extended at the gallop, as well as in the haute école horse that is maximally collected in the levade." The highest tone and activity of all the necessary muscles is an integral part of it, while their complete voluntary surrender precludes any disruption of the impulsion that floods the entire horse from the hind legs to the reins. This means that the horse must refrain from bracing his muscles; and furthermore, no part of his body must be impeded in freely unfolding its natural activity by stiffness, clumsiness, or lack of flexibility or muscle tone...I cannot think of a more accurate or concise way of describing the naturally numerous factors of true relaxation in the horse. In the same clarity, the author says about the natural rhythm of the footfall sequence: Swinging "with the regularity of the pendulum of a clock", the uninterrupted alternation between flexion and relaxation of the muscles results in the regularity of the gaits. This relaxation is tantamount to the complete surrender of all the horse's energies to the currently demanded purpose. "Within this relaxation, we work towards a continuous gradual increase in collection." This requires not only the ability to relax completely, but even more so - and this is even more difficult - the absolute willingness and ability to flex the muscles to the utmost degree, refined to a playful execution in any demand (i.e. at the same time relaxation and constant readiness to flex, the opposite of slackness)!
For if the driving aids are discontinued, any contact with the rider's hand ceases along with the impulsion from the hindquarters,until the horse "falls apart". Since now the seat and legs are reluctant to drive, while the hand is afraid "to carry anything"...(Apparently even back then relaxation was often confused with slackness - e.g. labeled "English school"). However, the web of muscles can only cooperate elastically when the musculature flexes correctly as a whole, i.e. only when the back is used correctly. For "it is only on the backmover", the horse with strong and elastically swinging back muscles, "that the rider sits softly and quietly". And it is only the effortless coordination of muscle flexion and precisely matching relaxation that turns the large "backspring" into a "gait producing and gait maintaining connection between forehand and hindquarters". Modifying the flexion of this back spring in various ways is true control over the horse's energies and enables their development. The security of the gait as well as the preservation of the horse's legs rests above all upon the use of his back muscles. It is thus not without reason that c.100 years ago riding master von Holleuffer emphasized that the most powerful muscles of the horse's body, the back muscles, determinethe work of the entire horse, resulting in the horse moving quietly under the rider's weight, wasting no energy. It also results in the calming of hot temperaments, waking up sleepy temperaments, a naturally beautiful outline of the horse, the pleasant, safe feeling of the rider in the saddle, and even a horse that appears to be better fed. The rider's seat on the horse's back is the closest connection between both: At first the rider's weight weakens and impedes the back's natural function. It also transmits the seat aids to the horse, however. It is the individual responsibility of everyrider to apply these correctly in order to establish the common balance of horse and rider at every moment in the footfall sequence,i.e. the permanent harmony of the movement. The rider's seat is thus the key for the correct effect of all other aids.
REGULATOR AND MODULATOR
As mentioned in an earlier article, I explain the correct effect ofthe rider's hand to my students by a comparison with a sieve: It must not interrupt the flow of the movement from the hind legs to the chewing mouth, but sift it, as it were. That corresponds to the rider's appropriate seat aids, based on the correct interaction of weight, and "Kreuz" (seat bones, and abdominal and shoulder muscles,TR). The rider's weight determines in particular the position of the common center of gravity depending on where the rider shifts his own center of gravity. The seat bones affect the activity of the back and the hind legs differently depending on how heavily or lightly the rider is sitting. The Kreuz "maintains and enhances the currently induced position of the center of gravity as well as the direction of the pressure of the seat bones on the horse's back". Although all three effects intermingle, the rider can determine each one separately: e.g. the racing seat with the rider's center of gravity shifted far forward is very different from the deep seat of the school rider.
The intensity of the flexion of the rider's Kreuz thus independent of the two other seat effects, and one distinguishes riders with "much" or "little" Kreuz, accordingly. (This says nothing about the rider's individual physique, however, but only about the use of his abdominal, back and shoulder muscles in the saddle). Wilhelm Müseler has illustrated the mechanics of the Kreuz effect effect in his famous "Riding Logic"
with the example of a child sitting on a four legged stool and tilting it forward by bracing the Kreuz muscles. Similarly, the rider's Kreuz transforms the gravitational pull of his body into a more or less determined pressure forward,when it is placed forward in the saddle along with his hip joints.The thoroughly educated rider can achieve this effect not only with a vertical upper body position, but also in a forward seat. If his Kreuz is thus working in the same direction as the forward swinging hind legs, it prevents the loss of the achieved degree of collection in the movement.
De la Croix called this function of the forward placement of the rider's hips very aptly "analogue and at the same time correlate of the hand". For the Kreuz determines the degree of flexion for the hindquarters and the position of the center of gravity, as the hand does for the forehand. Both, united in an elastic interplay,maintain the horse in collection. Kreuz and hand willingly absorb the pressure that corresponds to the tempo and the degree of the muscle tone of the horse's back, which means they also reduce their own muscle tone as the horse reduces his. However, the Kreuz is by far the more important aid.
The experienced trainer De la Croix also remarks that as soon as the horse tires of the collection, he will try to evade it by reducingthe flexion of the haunches and by raising the croup. Only theKreuz, "sitting imperturbably through the thrust of the hind legs" can then induce the horse to realize his helplessness. (The hand cannot accomplish this, since the excessive pressure against the forehand emanates from the thrust of the hind legs that is not immediately transformed into carriage to the necessary degree). In all gaits, the Kreuz is, therefore, the rider's most important regulator of rhythm and stride length. This goes especially across country: Unevennesses of the terrain require different placements ofthe hind legs and front legs. This can interrupt the regularity of the movement. The same thing applies when the horse stumbles or spooks in moments of surprise. Here the Kreuz absorbs the changed position of the center of gravity as well by flexing more or less and by following the horse's movement appropriately. "Following the center of gravity's changed position and gently floating back into the old muscle tone and degree of balance"... ensures the beautiful,uninterrupted flow of the movement and thus resembles the valve of a machine that allows excess steam pressure to evaporate harmlessly. Securing the established gait situation is the characteristic feature of the Kreuz.
FROM IMPULSION TO THE HALF HALT
This still highly interesting work on the "Natural art of riding" (last published in 1913), much discussed in the past, but difficult to locate nowadays, corroborates the key function of the Kreuz in the balanced motion: Leg and spur aids remain useless without utilization by the seat. Even an experienced rider would then depend on his horse's good will. The respect that the often indispensable spur can obtain does not replace the main aid from the "midsection"placed forward in the saddle.
In other words, only correct seat aids guarantee the success of the leg aids and their amplifications by whip and spurs. The hand must remain passive! It is not a lever to be applied actively, as De laCroix emphasizes. He uses a comparison similar to the sieve: The hand should be "merely a barrier that restrains the horse's excessive thrust (in cooperation with the seat and legs)". Its stillness ("steadiness") with the appropriate rein length abnegates any active backward work with the hand. However, it must "absorb diligently what the impulsion from the hind legs places into it"! This is the only way to maintain the necessary tension in the backspring.
The hindquarters find the corresponding support in the ground as well as in the rider's adhesive Kreuz in the saddle: The more the Kreuz absorbs the impulsion from the hind legs, the more the horse flexes his back muscle through the thrust of the hind legs, and the less pressure arrives in the rider's hand (provided the back and hind legs are strong). Horses with "weak muscle texture", on the other hand, often cannot produce the flexion and hence impulsion necessary for the demanded tempo merely by stepping far underneath.These horses need a point outside their own body to help them flex their muscles. The hand must provide it. But even here it is not the hand that does the real work: "It is the Kreuz here as well!"The hand is attached to the Kreuz via shoulders and arms, and when a horse pulls, the difficulty is not to set the hand, but to keep the Kreuz "imperturbably imperturbably still". If it successfully curbs attempts of the hind legs to free themselves, the horse will temporarily lean onto the hand, but only to recognize his own helplessness against the Kreuz - "If the Kreuz gives out , the handgives out - without a good Kreuz a good hand is simply unthinkable!"
This is his most relevant argument and shall conclude the quotes from Otto de la Croix as a witness for hundreds of experiences cross country and in the arena. This perspective also makes it obvious why effortless half halts and full halts in any gait are only possible with increased absorption from the Kreuz. This goes all the more for the compensation of defectively conformed backs of horses that are less generously endowed by nature. Only the constantly toned Kreuz,which is justifiably called "driving", makes it possible.
If one wanted to take the time to train an especially well conformed horse without leg aids, merely with the Kreuz effect, one could do this, as the Old Masters certainly did with great time effort. But any less than perfectly conformed horse - i.e. the majority - will require the cooperation of all honest aids. If the training is done correctly, these horses as well will require smaller and smaller leg aids toward the end of their gymnastic development. Only the road there varies in length from horse to horse. Finding the right measurement remains a matter of the correct instruction of the young rider and experience for the old rider.
THE URGENT TASK
As practice shows, learning to sit is the foundation for the equestrian beginner regarding his later Kreuz effects. Every student learns today as in the past: The Kreuz is the connecting link between the rider's aids. But anything that requires time and effort is not popular nowadays. In the teaching practice, the Kreuz effect is therefore often neglected, and all the student receives is a theoretical explanation. Maybe it is simply the lack of role models who can show the young equestrians horses that are truly tuned tothe Kreuz and who can train these horses themselves. I am thinking here of horses that would piaffe and passage with deeply flexed haunches and very light rein contact - almost with a slack rein, but without ever sucking back, finally horses that would perform levades in this manner. We only need to think of engravings by Ridinger and his contemporaries that portray the school movements without any legaids in the greatest suppleness and in absolute obedience. The old French style of riding that Guérinière refined, the stretched seat that the great riding masters demonstrated at the end of the 18th century, can unfortunately be found only in very few places today. Instead of the horse in front of the rider - only achievable through correct Kreuz effects - we see short necks and tense movements with a rigid back that throws the rider uncomfortably that are mistaken for impulsion all too often nowadays. Instead of downward transitions and half halts without pulling on the reins, crude effects of the rein hand appear even in the show ring.
There is therefore not only a practical task here. The transmission of better knowledge must be accompanied by an acceptance of discipline on behalf of the teacher as well as the student. So far, young riders have generally responded well to correct instruction and the convincing example of the teacher. The sacrifices in spare time, often also in hard earned money, always deserve careful instruction! Seat and Kreuz effect as the key to secure control over the horse and to a preservative increase of the demands merit the first rank in the training plan.
Unfortunately, the reality is often a rushed training of the horse and superficial knowledge of many riders nowadays. The disappointing consequences become especially clear in the example of the Kreuz effect, as Otto de la Croix puts it: "The truth is always brutally simple. However, it lies deeper, hidden from the superficial glance."
.... Tune in for an upcoming article detailing the "Kreuz"!
Saturday, September 29, 2007
The Price Tag of Knowledge
I just finished reading my October USDF Connection and put it on the shelf in chronological order with the previous year or so of issues. As I put it away, I glanced at a shelf of videos above it, and the shelves and shelves of books alongside. Most of them are dressage oriented, but over the years, I've open mindedly and "open pocketbooked" for various gurus, Natural Horsemen and the like. These particular items were generally pricey and their content (so its claimed) could not be executed without passing over more greenbacks for specialty equipment. I don't want to admit what I've spent in giving things an honest try, but its a lot.
What did I learn?
* Nothing, absolutely NOTHING makes up for a lack of an independent seat, and correct use of the aids
* ALL horses buck, spook, rear, pull-back etc. sometime and all the desensitizing, getting off, ground work etc. you want will not keep it from happening. The ONLY thing that works 100% of the time is to ride through it.
* Its okay to MAKE your horse do something. Your poor wittle howrsey won't hate you. In fact, he might just learn from the experience.
* It is NOT, repeat NOT okay to keep a horse that is too much for you on the mistaken belief that only YOU can understand him. Especially if said horse is not being ridden, or trained to make him a useful and desireable creature for someone else. Heaven forbid you die and someone is left to find a home for him. Its likely to be in a meat pack on its way to Europe.
* If you can train a horse on the longe line with side-reins and a bit to use his body correctly in a few weeks therefore making said horse a balanced and capable animal to ride on the bit in precise figures at walk/trot/canter within a few months then by all means. It is absolute hogwash to let a horse plod around in mindless circles doing silly games for the human enjoyment with his body leaning inward, torquing his joints, hollowing his back, for months before riding him with a halter and no contact for years...... WHY? Pick up the reins and ride your horse on the bit, not some of the time, or when you feel like doing something refined, or when you feel like you want to "pass an assessment"... ALWAYS ride your horse on the bit with an elongated topline, engaged hocks and a lighter forehand preferrably with bend.
* Of course this means you must actually apply aids to your horse. Sitting up straight, with your heels down, shoulders back and hips swinging so you can aid the horse appropriately (yes you have to manage what is going on.. you are the brains of the operation)
* Horses need a purpose in life. If you have an old campaigner who can't ride much, then by all means, teach him some work in-hand, teach him some cute (and safe) tricks like pushing a ball with his nose or picking up a cone.
* You can make a horse do just about anything if you use enough pressure. He will even do a flying change with you in the absolutely wrong position and timing. Sure, it will take less and less if you have followed through on your threat enough.
* Doing "games" like standing a horse on a rock, or laying it down can be just as much about the handler's ego trip as riding 4th level can be for a DQ. At least the latter is more likely to admit it.
* The relationship you have with your horse is only as noteworthy or strong as the hardest thing you can do with your horse well.
Now, back to my stack of USDF Connection magazines.... my USDF membership has cost me $60 for the past few years. I can join a GMO, in this case the California Dressage Society, and I'm a member of USDF by that. I choose to upgrade to a particpating membership for awards purposes (OMG! Ego boosting) but even that is less than $100. Each month I get a magazine that has tremendous information that I need to know.
* How the levels structure the horses training progressively so that he is obedient, calm, supple and balanced to ride. With exercises and lessons to demonstrate key elements of those levels written by USDF certified instructors (people who got certified because they attended lots of classes with a panel of experts and passed tests administered by a panel of experts... not a paid for franchise/certification)
* Articles on evaluating conformation and suitability as a sport horse- HUGE importance since so many behavior issues are the horse simply saying he can't do what is asked or needs further development.
* Articles on gaits and biomechanics of the horse
* Articles on the biomechanics of the rider including off horse exercises that can help me ride better.
* Reports from top shows with pictures that demonstrate good riders and good horses doing good work.
* Clinic reports, reports on USDF symposiums and other educational events with top instructors
* Links to certified instructors
* Listing of USDF University workshops - accredited courses with MORE info on everyting from bodywork, to judges continuing education
* Listings of "L" programs that one can audit or participate in
This list could easily go on ......
And I can really elongate it further if I factor in my $20 a year Dressage Today subscription with further articles, clinic notes, exercises, rider psychology, horse psychology.... and on and on.
All the info is out there and its cheap!!! Especially when compared to the hundreds of dollars one can spend on a NH gurus DVD's let alone their courses... sure they have certified instructors who have met their arbitrary definitions of proficiency (and paid for little franchise).
I'm not saying a person couldn't learn anything from some of the gurus out there. But, in my position where people are coming for lessons with their horses, the problems that they face have not in many cases been solved by the packaged systems. THis is largely due to the fact that they omit or negate two HUGELY critical elements in determining the success of a horse rider pair... and that is the horse your sittin' on and the rider sittn' on it. You can only ride well if you learn to ride and these programs simply don't teach riding. You horse can only do what you want if he is built for the job, and properly trained for it. I've had some serious WTF moments when people have come to me and said "I'm having trouble doing a half-pass" and the rider is slouched and flopping all over on a horse wearing a halter with his nose in the air and the reins a flapping. I'm not exaggerating... not one iota- and all this on a croup high ewe necked post legged critter. With critters like this, I'm at least glad to find out that they are thrilled to death to one the horse because he trots along side them at liberty and does any number of games for which they adore him. That is probably the best thing. But, please, please please, don't go smacking your orange sticks on him, making him jump things and trot like a sewing maching with his nose in the air with no saddle and bridle on because you have some personal need to feel "free" and "natural" or whatever....
Instead, if you really want to help your horses, seek the advice of an accomplished professional in the discipline you are interested in. In this case, dressage. Ask them to evaluate you and your horse's suitability to that discipline given your goals within it. If you want to keep your horse, find what he is good at and then go join the national federation that governs that discipline and absorb its educational material and get lessons from its accredited professionals. If you want to do dressage, join the USDF. Subscribe to mags and join your local club. Find the best professional you can find in your area that you can afford and work with them as often as you can. Then simply work your butt off to get better for the sake of your horse. Sprinkle in the guru stuff as fitted (if it fits at all) in to your unique situation with your horse. This stuff is the extras... its the stuff that you use when you have a situation or horse/rider flaw that is to the far edges of the bell curve and need a solution that lives on the fringe of practicle knowledge and application.
You will find that this approach saves a lot of $$ and will get you a lot further.
http://www.usdf.org
What did I learn?
* Nothing, absolutely NOTHING makes up for a lack of an independent seat, and correct use of the aids
* ALL horses buck, spook, rear, pull-back etc. sometime and all the desensitizing, getting off, ground work etc. you want will not keep it from happening. The ONLY thing that works 100% of the time is to ride through it.
* Its okay to MAKE your horse do something. Your poor wittle howrsey won't hate you. In fact, he might just learn from the experience.
* It is NOT, repeat NOT okay to keep a horse that is too much for you on the mistaken belief that only YOU can understand him. Especially if said horse is not being ridden, or trained to make him a useful and desireable creature for someone else. Heaven forbid you die and someone is left to find a home for him. Its likely to be in a meat pack on its way to Europe.
* If you can train a horse on the longe line with side-reins and a bit to use his body correctly in a few weeks therefore making said horse a balanced and capable animal to ride on the bit in precise figures at walk/trot/canter within a few months then by all means. It is absolute hogwash to let a horse plod around in mindless circles doing silly games for the human enjoyment with his body leaning inward, torquing his joints, hollowing his back, for months before riding him with a halter and no contact for years...... WHY? Pick up the reins and ride your horse on the bit, not some of the time, or when you feel like doing something refined, or when you feel like you want to "pass an assessment"... ALWAYS ride your horse on the bit with an elongated topline, engaged hocks and a lighter forehand preferrably with bend.
* Of course this means you must actually apply aids to your horse. Sitting up straight, with your heels down, shoulders back and hips swinging so you can aid the horse appropriately (yes you have to manage what is going on.. you are the brains of the operation)
* Horses need a purpose in life. If you have an old campaigner who can't ride much, then by all means, teach him some work in-hand, teach him some cute (and safe) tricks like pushing a ball with his nose or picking up a cone.
* You can make a horse do just about anything if you use enough pressure. He will even do a flying change with you in the absolutely wrong position and timing. Sure, it will take less and less if you have followed through on your threat enough.
* Doing "games" like standing a horse on a rock, or laying it down can be just as much about the handler's ego trip as riding 4th level can be for a DQ. At least the latter is more likely to admit it.
* The relationship you have with your horse is only as noteworthy or strong as the hardest thing you can do with your horse well.
Now, back to my stack of USDF Connection magazines.... my USDF membership has cost me $60 for the past few years. I can join a GMO, in this case the California Dressage Society, and I'm a member of USDF by that. I choose to upgrade to a particpating membership for awards purposes (OMG! Ego boosting) but even that is less than $100. Each month I get a magazine that has tremendous information that I need to know.
* How the levels structure the horses training progressively so that he is obedient, calm, supple and balanced to ride. With exercises and lessons to demonstrate key elements of those levels written by USDF certified instructors (people who got certified because they attended lots of classes with a panel of experts and passed tests administered by a panel of experts... not a paid for franchise/certification)
* Articles on evaluating conformation and suitability as a sport horse- HUGE importance since so many behavior issues are the horse simply saying he can't do what is asked or needs further development.
* Articles on gaits and biomechanics of the horse
* Articles on the biomechanics of the rider including off horse exercises that can help me ride better.
* Reports from top shows with pictures that demonstrate good riders and good horses doing good work.
* Clinic reports, reports on USDF symposiums and other educational events with top instructors
* Links to certified instructors
* Listing of USDF University workshops - accredited courses with MORE info on everyting from bodywork, to judges continuing education
* Listings of "L" programs that one can audit or participate in
This list could easily go on ......
And I can really elongate it further if I factor in my $20 a year Dressage Today subscription with further articles, clinic notes, exercises, rider psychology, horse psychology.... and on and on.
All the info is out there and its cheap!!! Especially when compared to the hundreds of dollars one can spend on a NH gurus DVD's let alone their courses... sure they have certified instructors who have met their arbitrary definitions of proficiency (and paid for little franchise).
I'm not saying a person couldn't learn anything from some of the gurus out there. But, in my position where people are coming for lessons with their horses, the problems that they face have not in many cases been solved by the packaged systems. THis is largely due to the fact that they omit or negate two HUGELY critical elements in determining the success of a horse rider pair... and that is the horse your sittin' on and the rider sittn' on it. You can only ride well if you learn to ride and these programs simply don't teach riding. You horse can only do what you want if he is built for the job, and properly trained for it. I've had some serious WTF moments when people have come to me and said "I'm having trouble doing a half-pass" and the rider is slouched and flopping all over on a horse wearing a halter with his nose in the air and the reins a flapping. I'm not exaggerating... not one iota- and all this on a croup high ewe necked post legged critter. With critters like this, I'm at least glad to find out that they are thrilled to death to one the horse because he trots along side them at liberty and does any number of games for which they adore him. That is probably the best thing. But, please, please please, don't go smacking your orange sticks on him, making him jump things and trot like a sewing maching with his nose in the air with no saddle and bridle on because you have some personal need to feel "free" and "natural" or whatever....
Instead, if you really want to help your horses, seek the advice of an accomplished professional in the discipline you are interested in. In this case, dressage. Ask them to evaluate you and your horse's suitability to that discipline given your goals within it. If you want to keep your horse, find what he is good at and then go join the national federation that governs that discipline and absorb its educational material and get lessons from its accredited professionals. If you want to do dressage, join the USDF. Subscribe to mags and join your local club. Find the best professional you can find in your area that you can afford and work with them as often as you can. Then simply work your butt off to get better for the sake of your horse. Sprinkle in the guru stuff as fitted (if it fits at all) in to your unique situation with your horse. This stuff is the extras... its the stuff that you use when you have a situation or horse/rider flaw that is to the far edges of the bell curve and need a solution that lives on the fringe of practicle knowledge and application.
You will find that this approach saves a lot of $$ and will get you a lot further.
http://www.usdf.org
Friday, September 28, 2007
Great Reading on Training Horses
"The Nature of the Sport" by Jeff Ashton-Moore
http://www.todayshorse.com/Articles/NatureoftheSport.htm
"The Nature of the Horse" by Jeff Ashton-Moore
http://www.todayshorse.com/Articles/NatureoftheHorse.htm
"The Learning Process of the Horse" by Jeff Ashton-Moore
http://www.todayshorse.com/Articles/LearningProcessoftheHorse.htm
About the Author ~
International Judge, and international dressage, jumping and vaulting clinician - J. Ashton Moore is the Co-Founder and Executive Director of the Dutch Warmblood Registry in North America as well as the Co-Founder of the American Vaulting Association.
A noted breeder of Dutch Warmbloods, Danish Oldenbourgs, and Holsteiners, he has bred many successful national and international competition horses. He owns the successful Dutch Grand Prix Dressage stallions Taxateur, Rubinstein, and Vosmaer. He has also been a successful breeder of Hannoverian and Trakehner sport horses. A former hunter, jumper and 3-day event competitor, Mr. Moore now concentrates on dressage and vaulting. He trains horses thru the FEI Grand Prix (Olympic) level at the private training facility "Osierlea", which he owns with dressage luminary Elizabeth Searle in historic San Juan Bautista, California. He coaches national and international level dressage and vaulting competitors at Osierlea and at clinics throughout the USA and abroad.
Mr. Moore trains judges in several equestrian disciplines, and works to promote a better understanding of equine and human biomechanics among judges and trainers. He says "A better understanding of how horses and humans function - independently, and as centaur - encourages more insightful, more systematic, and kinder training methods, as well as more knowledgeable judging." He gives seminars on related subjects: "Horse Biomechanics", "Rider Biomechanics", "The Learning Process of the Horse", "From the Ground Up" (a training system that prepares the horse for stress-free breaking and ongoing training), "Training for Competition Riding", "Training and Showing the Sporthorse in Hand".
When not dealing with horses, Mr. Moore breeds threatened species of parrots, and runs a cattle ranch and experimental fruit plantation on the Caribbean island of Bocas del Toro.
Mr. Moore's additional credentials and accomplishments include:
AHSA Senior Dressage Judge
AHSA Sporthorse Breeding Judge
FEI Official Vaulting Judge (Judge of 5 World Championships and World Equestrian Games)
FEI Training Judge for vaulting
Director of AHSA National Dressage Judges' Forum
Director of National and International Vaulting Judges' Forums
Judge Trainer & Examiner of the US Dressage Federation Learner Judges' Program
Compiler/editor of "Glossary of Dressage Judging Terms" (USDF publication)
Editor of "Dressage Judge's Handbook" (USDF publication)
Editor of "Dressage Judge's Checklist" (USDF publication)
Producer of the training video "Showing Your Sporthorse in Hand" (USDF production)
Graduate "A" of the US Pony Club
AHSA Hunter Judge (retired)
AHSA Jumper Judge (retired)
AHSA Equitation Judge (retired)
http://www.todayshorse.com/Articles/NatureoftheSport.htm
"The Nature of the Horse" by Jeff Ashton-Moore
http://www.todayshorse.com/Articles/NatureoftheHorse.htm
"The Learning Process of the Horse" by Jeff Ashton-Moore
http://www.todayshorse.com/Articles/LearningProcessoftheHorse.htm
About the Author ~
International Judge, and international dressage, jumping and vaulting clinician - J. Ashton Moore is the Co-Founder and Executive Director of the Dutch Warmblood Registry in North America as well as the Co-Founder of the American Vaulting Association.
A noted breeder of Dutch Warmbloods, Danish Oldenbourgs, and Holsteiners, he has bred many successful national and international competition horses. He owns the successful Dutch Grand Prix Dressage stallions Taxateur, Rubinstein, and Vosmaer. He has also been a successful breeder of Hannoverian and Trakehner sport horses. A former hunter, jumper and 3-day event competitor, Mr. Moore now concentrates on dressage and vaulting. He trains horses thru the FEI Grand Prix (Olympic) level at the private training facility "Osierlea", which he owns with dressage luminary Elizabeth Searle in historic San Juan Bautista, California. He coaches national and international level dressage and vaulting competitors at Osierlea and at clinics throughout the USA and abroad.
Mr. Moore trains judges in several equestrian disciplines, and works to promote a better understanding of equine and human biomechanics among judges and trainers. He says "A better understanding of how horses and humans function - independently, and as centaur - encourages more insightful, more systematic, and kinder training methods, as well as more knowledgeable judging." He gives seminars on related subjects: "Horse Biomechanics", "Rider Biomechanics", "The Learning Process of the Horse", "From the Ground Up" (a training system that prepares the horse for stress-free breaking and ongoing training), "Training for Competition Riding", "Training and Showing the Sporthorse in Hand".
When not dealing with horses, Mr. Moore breeds threatened species of parrots, and runs a cattle ranch and experimental fruit plantation on the Caribbean island of Bocas del Toro.
Mr. Moore's additional credentials and accomplishments include:
AHSA Senior Dressage Judge
AHSA Sporthorse Breeding Judge
FEI Official Vaulting Judge (Judge of 5 World Championships and World Equestrian Games)
FEI Training Judge for vaulting
Director of AHSA National Dressage Judges' Forum
Director of National and International Vaulting Judges' Forums
Judge Trainer & Examiner of the US Dressage Federation Learner Judges' Program
Compiler/editor of "Glossary of Dressage Judging Terms" (USDF publication)
Editor of "Dressage Judge's Handbook" (USDF publication)
Editor of "Dressage Judge's Checklist" (USDF publication)
Producer of the training video "Showing Your Sporthorse in Hand" (USDF production)
Graduate "A" of the US Pony Club
AHSA Hunter Judge (retired)
AHSA Jumper Judge (retired)
AHSA Equitation Judge (retired)
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